River board steering implementation and structural integrity design

ABSTRACT

I Jeremy Matthews will proceed with my life&#39;s work with a marketing orientation that will be dictated by where the rivers are at. I&#39;ve taken the liberty of counting the rivers in the countries that often have a favorable dollar trade or fair as well as the United States If not greater. In Germany there are 16 rivers. France has 13 while China has 18 and Spain only has 6 but Canada has 302. Now then in the United States we have 2320 rivers. Now then when one realizes my board is the weapon of choice feel free to follow my lead and ride its highly effective shape as it will be provided rest assured.

SUMMARY OF INVENTION

The shape of my board is a cross between a bullet and a guitar pick.Picture a guitar pick with corners on the down slope. say just back fromthe point you pick with. The reason they are their is to allow trustwhen spinning the board. For example when you take a corner fast it isdone in two stages. first slow down before the turn then speed up as youcome out of it. We're talking the same concept as is the pivot corner isthe first stage. The second stage you place more weight on the tip ofthe nose in order to accelerate the back end around. That's' why thepivot corners should be placed 24 to 28 inches down from the nose.

In hopes of someday hitting a 720 I place the lead line pivot hole 8 to15 inches from the nose. This also allows the back end to come up at ahigher angle when pivoting for a 360. This keeps the board from goingunder the rope. However by designing it this way it is more inclined todive to the bottom when turned upside down. So I'll put a foam bow inthe nose to prevent this. As well as a structural integrity design whichconsists of doubled x across the board and around the nose made up ofcarbon fiber strips. In addition to impact protection this will alsoprevent the board from caving in on itself from the handle pulling theopposite way of the lead line to the stretch system.

Speaking of which the handle is usually 1 to 2½ feet long connected totwo ropes going to attaching it to the board and not the lead line. Thehandle should hang from 2 to 7 inches from the bottom of the board. Nowthen the bullet like structure of it consists of the radius of the nosebeing 8 to 12 inches and the rails on the sides of the board being 20 to23 inches in length. This allows the board to get past the hump ofinitial retraction at a faster rate so you can get your momentum goingwith the board. The radius of the bottom corners is 6 to 10 inches.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

First you start with the internal core. This can be made of plastic,surf foam, rubber or honeycomb foam but I feel that a combination ofplywood and foam will respond to the river the best. For supplies I willuse a 25 by 16 inch 2 inch thick piece of surf foam and a 4 by 4 feetsheet of ¼ inch plywood. First we must picture the edge of the boardbeing a total of 139 inches in circumference.

Start 0 at the tip of the nose then measure 4½ inches down from 0 andmake an 9 inch line across of what would be the width of the board Nowthen mark a radius point at a slant at 13 inches from the 4½ inch noseradius mark on both sides of 0, which will be 25 inches across in width.Next draw a ½ inch radius mark on both sides of 0 at 24 inches down fromthe nose and 10 inches from the ¼ radius mark. These last two marks are31 inches across. Recognize that the ¼ inch radius corner and the ½ linch corner are the stepping stones that allow the riverboarder to trustthe board as they use them to lean on through a turn. This is so becausea good riverboarder stance is likened to a wrestler's stance, with thefront foot heal perpendicular to the ¼ radius mark and the back foot isplaced on the opposite bottom corner at about 6 to 12 inches from theedge of the bottom of the board. In addition to being able to sway fromside to side by shifting your weight You may also lean forward andbackward to control the board while in motion. This is easier with pivotlead line at 7 to 16 inches from the nose. In other words thecombination of the radius of the nose being wide enough to be stablewhen pivoting for a 360 and the pivot corners being trustworthy enoughto lean the board on its side edge. Without it swiveling to fast so thatit spins out from under you. Also please note that the distance betweenthe nose radius mark and the ¼ inch radius mark is most important whenthe underwater 360 is in motion. If the width of the nose is to wide theboard will be harder to point toward the bottom as well as bring backaround.

Now then from the ½ inch pivot radius mark measure down 19 inches oneither side of 0 and make a mark to get the side rails. Now then to getthe bottom corner radius make a mark at the bottom of the 19 inch railmark then measure in toward the middle of the board and at 4½ inchesacross make a mark. From there measure down 4½ inches to the bottom edgeof the board. Recognize that from 4½ inch rail mark to the 4½inch bottomedge mark is how to get a 9 inch radius for the bottom corners of theboard. Yes you can expect more detail on how to get that with thesemeasurements in the following paragraph. But first understand that thedistance from the very bottom of the board to one bottom edge radiusmark to the other is 20 inches across.

The distance from the bottom edge to the tip of the nose is 47 incheswhile the width between the rails is 31 inches.

Always start measuring and drawing from the front of the board thisallows us to calculate the one inch pivot radiuses. This is thecornerstone of the shape because it allows the two step stage whilepivoting for a spin on the river. The way to draft this for your firsttemplate as I hinted at before, is with a plastic bendable yardstick, awood block, a hammer and 2 nails. But first the radius of the nose mustbe drawn. We must configure a 9 inch radius for the nose, So use a footlong plastic ruler to get that first in the manner I'm about todescribe. Set the ruler on its edge with the face of it inch mark. Nextnail the block on the side the board isn't going to be at the 4 inchmark on the 0 inch mark. Then put a nail on the other side of the rulerat the 4 inch mark. Now then bend the ruler to the 4½ inches nose radiusmark, if the 4½ inches mark on the ruler is at the 0 mark on the boardthen draw to the 8½ mark on the ruler at the 4½ inches mark on the boardand do this on both sides of 0 to complete nose radius.

Might I add before you apply the yardstick use the foot long to get the1 pivot radius and the ¼ pivot radius, Thus from the ¼ pivot mark mayyou use the yardstick other wise you lose surface area of the nose aswell as the pivot marks.

So then forth to the 20 inch rails shall we reside upon the frame of thebody of the board. Witch is most important for streamlining the motionof retraction up the river. Instance that if the rails are more than 20in length then the board will come out smoother and faster yet but itwill not spin without the rail flipping up on its side in a loss ofcontrol. Wherefore it doesn't make maneuverable skims. You use theyardstick to get the rails. Then use the bendable ruler to get thebottom corners.

Now that we have a template let's make the internal core. Start this byshaving a half inch off the perimeter of the template, either by sandingor adjusting the template measurements before you make it.

What we are going to do is make a v slot in the nose in order toimplement the foam core. This will help prevent the nose from diving tothe bottom. Start by measuring from 0 at the nose now then down 6½inches and over to the right and left with two separate marks that are16 inches apart. If you were to measure from one of those marks back to0, it would be 10 inches. Now go to the ½ inch corner radius marks, andmeasure 13½ inches toward the center from both corner radius marks. Theyshould be 4 inches apart. Now then you should have an upside downtriangle with a flat top. Next you cut out the triangle using a jigsawand then sand all blemishes.

Now go to the foam core that shall fit in the v slot in the nose we justmade. Into the nose design realm we go whereby the options are any typeof foam will work but surf foam will suffice the best. The foam shouldbe molded by shaving with a chisel and finishing by sanding and buffingto the measurements that I will illumine but first put the core and thebottom part aside for now and make the same shape again out of anotherpiece of plywood for the next stage. We'll come back to what to do withthese innards later. The next embodiment is a swollen bow form like onthe front of a boat. The form should butt up exactly in the empty noseof the plywood core.] Starting with a piece of foam that is at least 3in depth and say 2o by 20. First measure the same marks as you did makethe v slot. Now make the same marks and it can be sanded to fit.Wherefore unto the depth measurements we go. Might I suggest for eachdepth mark paint pin that is an ⅛ inch shy of final depth. Remember thepaint marks the measurement of the depth.

Now then use a wood saw to cut out the foam, and then shave the depths.To simplify measurement I've taken the liberty of sectioning off eachdepth change with a triangle so that the point of the triangle can beused for sloping in depth. The part that lays on the water must not cometo a point because swimmers floating down the rapids might hit it andfurthermore it would hinder spinning. Wherefore I've designed a roundbottom that is concentric with the nose and the pivot corners not toexceed any slope too close to the edge lest it hinder the slicing effectof the edges for steering. I like the topside of the edge beveled andthe bottom at a 45 degree angle.

The highest point of the bow will be at the pivot hole so that the ropewon't get caught on it when the board spins. Looking at the board fromits side view it will look like an elongated bow but looking at it whilefacing the nose will make it look more like a fin because that width isskinnier rather which I think will be wonderful combination of safetyand steering.

Now then from 0 measure down 3 inches and over 2 and make a mark. Do thesame on both sides of 0. Connect the dots including 0 you should have atriangle with the area of 6 inches. Now then 6 inches from 0 go down andover 2 then make a mark. do the same on both sides of 0. Again youshould have a triangle with the area of 6 inches this time. Now thenfrom 0 measure 13½ inches and over 3¾ and do this on both sides of 0.The total area of this space is 28¼ inches.

Now then the next inch toward the bottom of the board is where I put thepivot hole. Which is at 14 inches from the nose. From now on in thedesign the triangle measure marks point the triangle toward the bottomof the board. Whereas all of the previous connect the dot trianglemeasurements are pointing toward the nose.

Now then to get the rest of the elongated bow measure 14½ inches from 0and 3 inches over on both sides of 0. The total area of this space is16½ inches. From here we measure 19 inches down from 0 and over 3 incheson both sides of 0. Now this is the final triangle area measurement andit's not exactly a full triangle since the top of the triangle is 2¾inch width while the height is 3 inches So to get those marks measuredown 22 inches and over 1⅜ inches on both sides of 0 making a base of 26/8 inches. Now then connect the dots back to the 19 inch mark and thetotal area of this space should be 3.5625 inches.

Now then make two 19 inch long lines ½inch apart on both sides of 0.Okay check this out, take a 19 inch by 2¾ inch in depth and ½ inch inwidth piece of plywood and place it between those two lines that havejust been created so that the 2¾ inches is vertical while the bottom ofthe board is facing up. Alright so here's how we get the depth of theslope concentrically centering around that inch we left at what I callthe pivot hole where the rope goes through the board. First we measure 3inches from 0 because we want three inches of ½ inch thickness aroundthe edge of the mound like feature of the bottom of the nose on theboard and so from that mark place that 2¾ inch vertical piece of woodand make sure it butts up against that mark three inches from the top ofthe board. It should butt up against the base of the bottom triangle ofthe bow at 19 inches and of course run straight through each one of thepoints of the triangles. Next go down from 0 to 13½ inches and make avertical depth line on the vertical piece of wood and of course followedby another one at 14½ inches. This is where the pivot hole will be. Sonow go along the base and top of each triangle and measure 3 inches fromthe sides of the board on either side of the vertical piece of wood andmake a mark on either side so that horizontal lines go through thatvertical piece after you've connected the two marks on both sides of thevertical piece of wood at the top and base of each of the triangles. Ohlet us not forget to measure and cut the slope from the top of the boardto the pivot hole inch and sloping down from their to the 19 inch basemark and make another slope. Here's how to do that; take a straight edgeruler and from the mark at 3 inches from 0 hold the edge straight to the13½ inch mark now then draw a line along the vertical piece of wood andof course the 13½ inch mark is on the top of the vertical piece of woodand the mark that is 2 ¾ inches in height. Now then do the same with themark at 14½ being on top and the base mark at 19 inches being on theb0ttom. Now its time to glue the vertical piece of wood into place inthe ½ inch slot that was made for it. Now in further continuance ofthose horizontal lines previously made at the tops and bases of all thetriangles put a horizontal slot in the vertical piece of wood using ahand saw and only go deep enough for a piece of wire to run from side toside of the board up and over the vertical piece with the horizontalslots holding the wire in place but just make the slots for now. Now forthe tricky part remembering the triangle measurements stuff those fullwith newspaper and clay. Just make it flush with the vertical piece ofwood except for the area around the pivot hole for that area find acircular piece of plastic such as a coffee lid with the lip of it cutoff so it will lay flat. Its diameter can be 3½ inches Now then centerit over the inch pivot hole area and use the clay to stick it in place.Next go back to all of the horizontal marks that were made 3 inches fromthe sides of the board and drill 1/16 inch hole all the way through theboard at every one of those marks. Now its ready for the wire to go onso string it through the holes and over the vertical piece of wood withthe slot in it for that particular horizontal line across. Make sure itstight by twisting it into a knot at both ends. So now its ready toimplement the depth measuring devices.

Here's what we're talking here; since the fact that before the verticalpiece of wood was glued on one should drill ¼ inch holes in the heightof the piece of wood. Just put ¼ inch hole every few inches. Now thenhaving already glued the vertical piece of wood on. Find ¼ inch dowelsthat will slide in the height of those holes. Now then place the dowelsin the holes. The dowels should be at least 4 inches in height. So nowmeasure ¼ inch above the vertical piece of wood on each of the dowels.That's how much more thickness the height should be expected to be whichwill leave ¼ inch space for finishing. Now simply just do a layer ofpaper mache followed by a layer of wall board joint compound and thensand evenly to desired depth. After that's all done. Turn the shape overand cut the wire knots on the other side. Now this side is going to haveto lay completely flat so if you can't get to the wire all the way bycutting it here's what you can do. Since the next step is to make ashape exactly the same except 4 inches wider on all edges that theprevious one. Now then if the wire can't be made flat drill a spacewhere the wire can go into this board when you stick the two of themtogether. Once the two can sit flat together stick them together so thatthere is 4 inches on all sides. Now put on a Gel coat or two on the sidewhere the bottom of the board is facing up. Next put a hole in each ofthe four corners around the parameters of the 4 inches extending fromthe edge. Then put pegs in those holes to hold it in place while alaminate of the shape is being made. Once that is completed you have afemale molding of which you can use to construct the board out of anymaterials so desired. But the main reason I've done it this way is toimplement one of me most important features which is what I call thestructural integrity design. Figuratively speaking its like the backbone of the board. Because lets face it you could take any of themeasurement as far as the shape is concerned and change them from 8 to12 inches in either direction and get the same results as long as thechanges were kept proportionate on all sides. But the fact would stillremain that the stress points where the board is vulnerable of breakingwill still be the same. Such as the board hitting the bottom of theriver or the board folding over on itself because of the handle and thepivot lead line pulling in opposite directions. Obviously the bow likefeature of the nose is one way to keep the board from hitting thebottom. Need I also mention that another way is to taper the nose radiusat an angle so the it angles up on the top of the board so that'd be a 4inch taper for a 12 inch radius for the example shape but of courseanother way is to put any type of flotation in the nose. As for thelatter structural weakness. That's why I specify to make a femalemolding. Because an inner structure can be made and placed inside of theshape. Now then for a general description we're talking aboutessentially a double x stacked on top of one another from the top to thebottom of the board. Of course one might consider doing a y on top of aw or even just putting + shaped reinforcements over the handle holeareas and pivot hole area's. The thing about these though is the y and xdesign won't double reinforce at the holes and the + shape reinforcementdesign won't prevent the board from folding over on itself. Now then tobe more specific, I'll present the example shape in further continuance.For starters that top x at its center should cross over at the pivotpoint hole so the cross in the center double reinforces that hole. Thebottom of each of its legs so to speak should cross the path of the twohandle holes. Each leg should run from edge to edge of the board. Nowthen for the bottom x the top of each of the legs crosses over the top xat the handle holes. The center of the bottom x should be in the centerof the board. The easiest way to draw the X's is with a straight edgeand just follow the directions so far. It happens that in the exampleshape the pivot hole point is at 14 inches down from 0. As far as thehandle holes are concerned follow the edge of the board 19 inches from 0on both sides and from those points go in 3 inches and make marks that'swhere the handle hole are and that's 3 inches down from pivot pointhole. Now then at these two marks you want to glue on two gel coated ½inch dowels so as to plug the holes for put the board together you haveholes. As far as the width and thickness of the reinforcements any widthwill do just not to big and as far as the thickness just leave enoughspace for glass on the top and the bottom. These reinforcements can bemade out of a variety of materials such as carbon fiber, plastic, epoxyhardener, fiberglass woven reinforcements or metal or wood. I like theidea of carbon fiber. Now then for the rest of innards of the nose Irecommend some type of floatation be cut and fitted to go withreinforcements on the inside if the board on the top half of the bottomx reinforcement and as far as the bottom half of the board yet again avariety of materials can be used such as all the previous mentioned. Inaddition to honey comb foam or even just straight fiberglass all the waythrough. And last but not least put a coat of fiberglass resin on it tothe correct height and put a cap on it and stick pins through the holesin the molding and the cap to hold it in place while drying. And ofcourse you can stick it in a vacuum sealed container to prevent airbubbles. Once you have the molding fit the previous mentioned innards inthe mold the do then make the structural integrity design and last butnot least fiberglass and then sand smooth it As of the completion ofthis design like none other this board will out steer any other boardconsidering the shape of the nose and let us not forget out last anyother board considering its structural integrity design so withoutfurther ado this design shall render the following claims. vertical withthe plywood. Start by placing the 4½ inch mark down from o. Followed bydrawing a horizontal 12 inch line 4½ inches down from the 0.

1. Steering edges comprising of; Left and Right edges on top of railsbeginning the arc of the nose which can be applied by the following: ½to 11½ inch radius arc for a pivot edge to trust through a turn or twosmaller radius's set apart along the arc of the nose so as to givestability through a turn.
 2. Pivot hole placement comprising of anyholes that allow the board to attach to the lead line to the stretchsystem at any point from 2 inches down from the nose and twelve inchesfrom their. means for back end of board to get over rope.
 3. Anyfloatation foam any where in the nose with or without a bow on the nosethat is concentric with the tip of the nose and the steering edgescomprising of said body; function select means, disposed in said body tokeep the board from hitting the bottom by which can be done by eitheror, or both with or without a bow for the bow is implemented for thisbut also the following: means by which to steer with as well, so thebows dimensions can fluctuate depending on the size of the board butmust remain concentric and the floatation foam should be left in nomatter what.
 4. Structural integrity design in the form of two X's ontop of one another comprising of said body by means of which: doublereinforces the retraction stress put on the pivot hole attached to thelead line and the handle holes being pulled in opposite directions suchthat the bottom x crosses over the top x at the handle holes meanwhilethe top x has its center over the pivot point hole.